![]() Ima Farm, located in the volcanic, forest-covered Nasu Highlands of Tochigi Prefecture (a few hours north of Tokyo), relies upon its healthy herds of Saanen goats, Brown Swiss cows, and Holstein cows to generate unrivaled European-style cheeses. However, the cheesemaker’s commitment to French tradition and its award-winning blues prove that the mountains of Japan offer more than skiing and onsens. Nowadays, Atelier de Fromage is far from the only artisan cheese producer in Nagano. It even managed to earn a Super Gold at the 2015 Mondial du Fromage in France. ![]() With creamier and stronger flavors than most other blue cheeses found in Japan, it’s been a regular favorite at Japanese cheese contests. Instead of resting on their laurels, however, Atelier de Fromage continues to send their cheesemakers on regular trips to France to expand their knowledge of different styles.Ītelier’s Fromage Bleu, inspired by French recipes, is a cow’s milk blue resembling the varieties of Southern France, like Roquefort or Bleu de Causses. The range has now expanded to over 20 different cheeses, many of which can be found at their very own restaurant in Tokyo. The Nagano couple were the first artisan cheesemakers in Japan to produce either a brie style or a fromage frais. Upon their return home, the duo purchased a small cheese room in Nagano and, beginning with the production of fromage frais and camembert, established Atelier de Fromage in 1982. Shigeo and Yoko spent an entire year studying cheesemaking at the French Ecole Nationale d’Industrie Laitière. However, they quickly realized that the production of a quality brie or camembert style would first involve a journey to France. Such was the case back in 1980, when Shigeo and Yoko Matsuoka left behind corporate careers to explore natural cheese production. Increasingly, however, the land-locked region has also attracted Japanese artisanal cheesemakers in search of quality pastures and pristine mountain water. Outside of Japan, Nagano Prefecture is best known as a mountain destination with ski slopes and hot springs. Lastly, Jyukushi Kaki (じゅくし柿), his washed-rind autumnal cheese, is made to directly resemble a ripe persimmon. Carre de Lavende, topped with a sprig of lavender, is released in the summer. Sakura Mochi (さくらもち), his springtime creation, shares an uncanny resemblance to the Japanese dessert with the same name. Matsubara responds to his milk’s seasonal fluctuations by approaching each cheese as a work of art. Diets vary according to the season, alternating between grasses in the spring and fallen chestnuts in autumn. Mirasaka Fromage’s herds of goats and Brown Swiss cows now graze freely in a mix of pasture and partially cleared forest. Three years later, he returned to Japan to establish Mirasaka Fromage-his very own artisan farmstead-in the forests of rural Hiroshima Prefecture. Matsubara’s quest began with a trip to France in 2004 to study cheesemaking. Those experiences made him wonder: Is it possible to produce cheese in a way that truly values the health of the land and the happiness of the animals? As a young man, he worked several jobs on commercial dairies in the United States and Australia. Masanori Matsubara used to question the environmental impact of dairy farming. Mirasaka FromageĬheesemaker Masanori Matsubara and his goats. Below are 5 cheesemakers to keep an eye on. In a country that’s never been considered a dairy destination, these makers are testing the limits of what cheese encompasses, circumventing the traditions of Europe to create something unique and entirely their own. ![]() At the same time, the number of artisan cheesemakers in Japan continues to climb. Oh, and the Japanese literally discover ed umami.Īll over the world, Japanese artisan cheese is flying under the radar. There’s a culture famously hungry for invention that’s open to new ideas. B ut think about it: Doesn’t Japan already possess many of the prerequisites for a thriving cheese scene? There’s a history of complex culinary tradition s and fervent fermentation. Asian countries aren’t exactly famed for fromage, and you’ve probably never seen a Japanese wheel behind your local cheese counter. You may have never given a thought to Japanese cheese, but we w on’t blame you. 5 Japanese Cheesemakers You Need to Know Malory Lane, Christine Clark and Molly McDonough | August 11, 2019
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